Try not to over rev or hit the powerband to much for a few hours of riding. Warming it up don't rev it. Hand push the starter to get fuel in the chamber and then you start it, if you don't and there isn't any mix in there the piston will start to scrape and the engine will wear. If you don't break the bike is properly, it can determind how long you will have the bike running for so don't kick the crap out of it and most importantly you should keep in mind that it is a 2 stroke. Lol
you do realize that "lightly" turning over the engine doesnt even create enough vacuum to pull the fuel mixture in. if u do it right, u dont have to worry about this because when u put the engine together, YOU PUT OIL ON EVERY RECIPROCATING AND ROTATING PART. then u dont have to do this. however if u thought it would be cool to leave your engine bone dry and for some reason you believe that getting some fuel/oil in there before it starts is gonna make a dif, then hold the kill switch and kick it over 5-6 times. this really isnt gonna get u anywhere though because the time it takes to lubricate the walls and fully filler the oiling ring is a lot more than this. also, it has been dyno proven that riding hard for break-in is actually better and produces a tighter seal. well, want to know why??? maybe no one really knows this but the reason for break-in is to match the piston rings to the wall of the cylinder. in a freshly honed cylinder the hone marks are only usable for about 20 minutes after first start up. after this they have been "sanded down". these hone marks help to grind the rings to a perfect fit, so the more pressure we apply to the walls of the cylinder the better job these hone marks can do. now how do we apply the most load possible. simple, by trying to run the bike in a higher gear than what would normally provide adequate power. once in a higher gear, pin the throttle. it should take a bit to accelerate if u are in a high enough gear. what you are doing is forcing a large quantity of gas/air into the engine. this ignites just as it would but there is so much load on the engine from being in a gear higher, that this mixture is delayed in pushing the piston to BDC. however in this delayed state, there is still all that energy press down on the piston. and as you probably dont know, piston rings are chamfered on the inside upper edge. this allows gas to travel around the piston(before rings) and expands these out. now when u take 2 equal explosions, but one takes more time to push the piston to BDC then that energy goes somewhere and it goes into pushing hard on the rings, effectively creating the best seal u could ask for.
ok cool but people keep sayin different things about break in like use more oil or normal oil etc apart from the way you ride it to start off with what other things are important i.e. tranny oil change etc??
w
what sze is ure bike?
125 kx
125 kx
f
hmmmmmmmmmmm
Break in
Try not to over rev or hit the powerband to much for a few hours of riding. Warming it up don't rev it. Hand push the starter to get fuel in the chamber and then you start it, if you don't and there isn't any mix in there the piston will start to scrape and the engine will wear. If you don't break the bike is properly, it can determind how long you will have the bike running for so don't kick the crap out of it and most importantly you should keep in mind that it is a 2 stroke. Lol
you do realize that "lightly"
you do realize that "lightly" turning over the engine doesnt even create enough vacuum to pull the fuel mixture in. if u do it right, u dont have to worry about this because when u put the engine together, YOU PUT OIL ON EVERY RECIPROCATING AND ROTATING PART. then u dont have to do this. however if u thought it would be cool to leave your engine bone dry and for some reason you believe that getting some fuel/oil in there before it starts is gonna make a dif, then hold the kill switch and kick it over 5-6 times. this really isnt gonna get u anywhere though because the time it takes to lubricate the walls and fully filler the oiling ring is a lot more than this. also, it has been dyno proven that riding hard for break-in is actually better and produces a tighter seal. well, want to know why??? maybe no one really knows this but the reason for break-in is to match the piston rings to the wall of the cylinder. in a freshly honed cylinder the hone marks are only usable for about 20 minutes after first start up. after this they have been "sanded down". these hone marks help to grind the rings to a perfect fit, so the more pressure we apply to the walls of the cylinder the better job these hone marks can do. now how do we apply the most load possible. simple, by trying to run the bike in a higher gear than what would normally provide adequate power. once in a higher gear, pin the throttle. it should take a bit to accelerate if u are in a high enough gear. what you are doing is forcing a large quantity of gas/air into the engine. this ignites just as it would but there is so much load on the engine from being in a gear higher, that this mixture is delayed in pushing the piston to BDC. however in this delayed state, there is still all that energy press down on the piston. and as you probably dont know, piston rings are chamfered on the inside upper edge. this allows gas to travel around the piston(before rings) and expands these out. now when u take 2 equal explosions, but one takes more time to push the piston to BDC then that energy goes somewhere and it goes into pushing hard on the rings, effectively creating the best seal u could ask for.
ok cool but people keep sayin
ok cool but people keep sayin different things about break in like use more oil or normal oil etc apart from the way you ride it to start off with what other things are important i.e. tranny oil change etc??
a lot of people recommend usi
a lot of people recommend using a richer mixture and i do too.